- 93 DODGE 5.9 CUMMINS REAR MAIN SEAL REPLACEMENT DRIVER
- 93 DODGE 5.9 CUMMINS REAR MAIN SEAL REPLACEMENT FULL
- 93 DODGE 5.9 CUMMINS REAR MAIN SEAL REPLACEMENT FREE
And this is our only vehicle right now because MY car (my wife drives the Durango as her daily driver) had its break lines crap out on it and I can’t afford to have THAT fixed either… so it sits. With winter heating season upon us as well as other bills we just can’t drop that kind of money right now. Now I know the ideal thing would be to get the seal replaced (rear main?), but frankly we can’t afford it. Even when we were losing the largest amounts of oil we had pressure. Once it gets rolling it drops down to 20-40. And the oil pressure when it is not leaking much stays from 20 -60 depending on whether you are idling or driving under load. The truck has always run “hot and cold” so just smelling hot didn’t worry us since all gauges show things are fine. This should mean that we still have oil in the engine, but I don’t like it and it should not be this way. And now we seem to be going through about 1 ½ quarts of oil a day. So the other day I added ANOTHER “stop leak” application (don’t recall the name but it stated it was more powerful…. But then a day or so later it began again. We put in one “stop leak” application (don’t recall the name) and after a couple days the leak all but went away. We never had to add more than 2 quarts though on most days and on some NONE. We were putting in at least 2 quarts of oil a day when driving the truck any amount (as in ANY amount of driving as long as the engine was running). At one point it was spraying out the bottom of the truck when running. It had a small leak but no drips for quite some time now, but a week or so ago we started to get not only drips but we lose oil bad. It's the nature of the beast.Mine (99) has a leak as well and it is troubling to say the least. To contrast that, my 6.2/4-speed truck marks it's territory every time Just enough residue to collect some road dust. Other than my truck is equipped with the same driveline as yours, andĪfter following the above recommendations, the back of my oil pan is justīarely damp after roughly 16,000 miles on a new seal. Past that, I really don't know what to tell you. (CDR) isn't doing it's job, the best seal in the world isn't going to hold.Įxcessive crankcase pressure in a 6.2/6.5 will blow seals out. In fact, I won't use it anywhere there's ever a chance of coming intoĬontact with synthetic based oil. RTV really isn't the proper sealer to use here. Secondly, use an anaerobic type sealer on the outer edge of the seal,Īs turbovanman suggested.
93 DODGE 5.9 CUMMINS REAR MAIN SEAL REPLACEMENT FULL
Low side of tolerance, even if it means replacing just the thrust bearing,Īnd not the full main set. The best plan is to make sure your crankshaft end-play is on the (This travel gets greater, the more the thrust bearing wears.)ĭepending on the crankshaft wear in the seal area, this lets the seal lose The clutch, the crankshaft walks forward a tiny bit. Some don't leak, but the majority do, or eventually will.Īs a rule, automatic equipped trucks tend to be less leak-prone, but I don't have any part#'s handy, but I use either Fel-Pro, or National brand. I wish I could offer a solution to the 6.5 rear main drip, but unfortunately i would love to know the best seal to use since i only want to do this once and would have rather done this before i dropped the motor in back in november.Īlso anymore tips or tricks would be appreciated. IF anyone has anything to add please do so. The truck is a 94 but im not sure of the motor since i had to swap out the old one.
93 DODGE 5.9 CUMMINS REAR MAIN SEAL REPLACEMENT DRIVER
Use the special seal driver to hammer in a new one (preferably the metal one, a part number would be great if anyone has one) that is lubed with vaseline. Pull out the new seal without damaging the crank.
93 DODGE 5.9 CUMMINS REAR MAIN SEAL REPLACEMENT FREE
Please feel free to correct me if i am wrong in any of the following. That way if i did have a leak in the valley in the future it would flow around the bell housing and not through it.Īfter reading through this site though from what i can gather i can change the seal without taking the motor out. I know the valley is dry and when i installed the motor i plug that stupid hole that would drop oil onto my clutch.
Mainly because when i had the front end of the truck raised today oil was dripping out from what appeared to be the rear main seal near the oil pan. After reading on here i am going to have to check the "tuna can" and the oil pressure sensor.
I was kind enough to take out the 4x4 assembly for him. Do to the fact i tried twice with no luck so i decided to place it in the hands of a more experienced person. I just had the oil pan replaced and new gasket installed by the shop next door. I believe i a have a leaky rear main seal. with as many problems as this seems to arise from this seal how come no one has written a walk through and placed it in the faq section? After reading through the FAQ and the search forum itself i still have a few questions.ġ.
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